With a few days off last week, i was glued to the swell charts and contemplating a trip to Scotland but with a nice swell headed straight for the East Coast, decided to stay put, hook up with my brother (Adam) and enjoy some local sessions.
However, instead of joining the bank holiday crowds at the usual spots we decided to explore a bit beyond the beaten track and scored some great waves... some nice and mellow, others a tad more gnarly...
One area of coast i've been wanting to check out for a while was particularly epic...after a 2 mile walk in at low tide our concern that it might be for nothing was turned on it's head when we reached a ledgy section of reef with hollow monsters dredging out and a rip like a river snaking between the peaks. After a bit of psyching up i launched (heart thumping) into the cauldron to see if anything was rideable. Another half hour of psyching up and i dropped into a steep left hand wedge, holding the rail in as hard as i could and only millimeters away from carnage...fun!
Not everthing we surfed was as gnarly and we clocked up many hours of great waves with everything from 6ft adrenalin pumping wedges to long playful walls and 2ft mellow beach breaks and all this with barely a soul in sight!
One area of coast i've been wanting to check out for a while was particularly epic...after a 2 mile walk in at low tide our concern that it might be for nothing was turned on it's head when we reached a ledgy section of reef with hollow monsters dredging out and a rip like a river snaking between the peaks. After a bit of psyching up i launched (heart thumping) into the cauldron to see if anything was rideable. Another half hour of psyching up and i dropped into a steep left hand wedge, holding the rail in as hard as i could and only millimeters away from carnage...fun!
Not everthing we surfed was as gnarly and we clocked up many hours of great waves with everything from 6ft adrenalin pumping wedges to long playful walls and 2ft mellow beach breaks and all this with barely a soul in sight!
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| The view after walking for over an hour. |
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| Only just making the drop on a very shallow ledge! |
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| The long walk |
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| Adam keeping it tight under the lip |
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| Lots of fun |
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And some more...    |
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Enjoying the view  |
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